Day2: Jammu to Zojilla
This was the longest distance we covered in a single day ever since we hit the hills; a total of 406 Kms.
A slight drizzle started as soon as we left Jammu for the day. We got into our waterproofs and also covered our luggage using whatever sheets of waterproof material we carried. Midway to Patnitop from Jammu, we had to have a brief stop as traffic was held up by a army convoy being dispatched. We had a tough time after that overtaking all the heavy army trucks, and progress was slow. Once we were done with the overtaking, it was smooth sailing for us. Me and Sumit decided to take a break at Patnitop and had tea while waiting for the others to catch up.
This was my first view of the Kashmir valley and I realized the expression ''Heaven on earth' as Kashmir is called. After sighting a particularly picturesque area while riding, we decided to have a break and take a few snaps of the place. Our enthusiasm mounted and we took a small dirt road going down, branching off the highway to get nearer to the amazing sceneries you see in the photos below. Manik and Sunil passed passed by as we were engrossed in capturing the landscape.
As we proceeded further, security grew heavier and there were snipers placed at vantage points all along the highway, ready to question us the moment we stopped anywhere. Taking a break, even to shoot a few photos was difficult, without being questioned and being asked to move ahead. It was as though a curfew was imposed and underway at the moment. Rarely any soul to be seen around. We entered Srinagar, had a brief stop at the Dal lake and proceeded further, being short of time. Had our lunch around 4, shortly after leaving Srinagar behind. The weather was pleasant, there were lush green crops all around and life seemed good, only marred by the frequent sighting of military personnel, rifles on the ready... an ugly by-product of terrorism.
We reached Sonmarg late in the evening. Snow on the adjoining peaks reminded us that we were gaining altitude and had a 3530 Mtr high pass to cross before calling it a day. Sonmarg would have looked beautiful on a sunny day. But right now the weather was cloudy and there were possibility of rains any time now.
Some photos later, we proceeded on our way to Zojilla pass. Our plans were to find the nearest accommodation we could get after passing Zojilla pass and call it a day. The roads grew progressively worse as we gained altitude. Later we found this to be a characteristic of almost all the high passes we crossed in our trip. Soon we were riding on loose gravel and mud. An army check post advised us against crossing the pass so late. But we were bold enough to spend the entire night right on the pass! Thankfully, the road leading to the pass was one way and so we were not asked to turn back and come again next morning. I was riding ahead of the pack and soon spotted the yellow BRO sign indicating that we were standing right on the pass. We stopped for a few snaps and Sumit suggested camping right there. I was game, but Manik and Sunil were apprehensive about camping in a terrorist infested area, right near the LOC. After some pondering over the suggestion, they were ready and we rode our bikes down and placed them such that our camp site was illuminated by the headlights of our bikes. We pitched our tents, cooked, had our meals.
Unlike our stay in hotels throughout the trip, camping was a different experience all together. And it was not a very comfortable experience, though I didn't mind the discomfort for the sake of adventure, which was to unfold the next morning. We had nothing much to do once we had finished our meals, which consisted of ready made rajma, rice and dal, that we had to simply put in boiling water, open the packs and swallow. So we had a pint of brandy and tried to go to sleep in our sleeping bags.
# posted by Salil @ 1:38 PM
